Explosive cyclogenesis in the NW Pacific Ocean

From NWS Honolulu.

Event: High Surf Warning
Alert:

…HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH AND WEST FACING SHORES OF NIIHAU
KAUAI OAHU AND MOLOKAI AND NORTH FACING SHORES OF MAUI…

…HIGH SURF WARNING FOR WEST FACING SHORES OF THE BIG ISLAND…

.A large northwest swell is forecast to build rapidly Saturday
morning, producing warning level surf to the exposed north and
west facing shores of the smaller islands and the west facing
shores of the Big Island. This swell is forecast to peak Saturday
evening and hold into Saturday night before gradually subsiding.

…HIGH SURF WARNING IN EFFECT FROM 6 AM SATURDAY TO 6 PM HST
SUNDAY…
The National Weather Service in Honolulu has issued a High Surf
Warning, which is in effect from 6 AM Saturday to 6 PM HST
Sunday.

  • SURF…25 to 35 feet for north and west facing shores of Niihau,
    Kauai, and Molokai and north facing shores of Oahu and Maui, and
    18 to 25 feet for west facing shores of Oahu.

  • TIMING…rapidly building Saturday morning, peaking Saturday
    evening, and holding through Saturday night.

  • IMPACTS…Very High…Expect ocean water surging and sweeping
    across beaches, coastal benches, and lava flows. Powerful
    longshore and rip currents will be present at most beaches.
    Large breaking waves and strong currents may impact harbor
    entrances and channels causing challenging boat handling.

Instructions: Large breaking surf, significant shorebreak, and dangerous currents make entering the water very hazardous. Anyone entering the water could face significant injury or death.

Target Area:
Kauai Leeward
Kauai Windward
Maui Central Valley
Maui Windward West
Molokai Leeward
Molokai Windward
Niihau
Oahu Koolau
Oahu North Shore
Waianae Coast
Windward Haleakala