I figured I could get a rotor plate for the top section and add a 3ft mast to that to give me the official 33ft height. I could also attach all of my VP2+ sensors to the tower as well. Anyone here try this before?
My anemometer has been on my TV antenna tower since March 2002. I did not put it on the top due to a rotor. It’s at about 25ft. My readings always have been comparable to the local airport. Since the effects of turbulence from the tower seem to be minimal, I never bothered to put an extension arm on to hold it further away from the tower.
You guys have the similar tower I want…minus the antenna.
Is ~$350 a decent deal for a 30ft tower like that? Know of any better deals?
That site also says that they are stand alone, but do you think I would have problems with just concreting it into the ground without guy wires? I’d prefer to stay away from guys.
Freestanding means no guy wires. However it does require a significant base of concrete. I didn’t look it up again but I think it said 25.x2.5x3.5, or 2.5 feet wide, 2.5 feet long, and 3.5 feet deep. You would need to set the base section of the antenna in the concrete, then after it sets you attach the sections of the tower.
Mine is Channel Master brand I installed in the 1980’s rated self supporting to (3) 10ft. sections with proper base and soil conditions. We have a lot of clay here. When we installed them for customers we set them in concrete base approx. 3’x3’x3’ (L x W x Depth) for a standard TV antenna. But you need to heed whatever the manufacture specs for the type you get also taking into account the wind load of what your mounting on top and your soil type. (Loose or sandy could mean more cement.) Plus you’ll want it below your frost line.
A little tip for you. Set the base section on some gravel before adding cement. This allows condensation to drain out the bottom rather then collecting in the pipe. When it collects in the pipe it will rust through at the base quicker and can freeze, splitting the pipe open.
Can i connect direct to com port ? if so which pins ?
1 Data Carrier Detect
2 Receive Data
3 Transmit Data
4 Data Terminal Ready
5 Signal Ground
6 Data Set Ready
7 Request to Send
8 Clear to Send
9 Ring Indicator
at least one COM port needs to be available for the wind sensor input.
A 9-pin COM port connector and cable is available from Inspeed (see below).
For do-it-yourselfers, attach to the COM1 9-pin connector as follows: WIND SENSOR: pins 4 and 6, no polarity. The Alarm output is on pin 7(RTS) with respect to pin 5(GND). It will go high(RS232 positive level) when it trips, and return low(RS232 negative level) when reset. The RS-232 output is specified to be in the range of 5 to
9 volts (positive or negative) when driven into a maximum load of 300 ohms.
Attach to the COM2 25-pin connector as follows: WIND SENSOR is connected between pins 20(DTR) and 6(DSR). The alarm output is on pin 4 (RTS) with respect to pin 7 (Signal ground). It will go high (RS232 positive level) when it trips, and return low (RS232 negative level) when reset. The RS-232 output is specified to be in the range of 5 to 9 volts (positive or negative) when driven into a maximum load of 300 ohms.
USB: Windware will work with a COM to USB adapter (not included)
is there in the info…
too much info, could not see that, LOL
good its working great
yes, every pulse of the magnet past the reed switch and WD calculates the windspeed
note: , i put in a check for off the scale, something went wrong, reading…in the latest 10.35