Home built fan aspirated radiation shield

Thank you Breitling for you most informative follow up for me, I will hopefull try it this weekend, shop stock permitting :slight_smile:

I’ve been thinking about this, and wondering whether there isn’t an easier way of doing this without all the cutting, filling and painting, and I’ve come up with this:

http://www.headcook.co.uk/kaiser-tinplate-loose-base-quiche-15cm-p-331.html

My first question would be whether anyone knows whether there would be a disadvantage of using silver metal as opposed to white plastic? Otherwise, you could use these for the layers of the pagoda with no need to cut the centres out, and no need to fill the lips.

Whadya think?

Wouldn’t the metal radiate heat? I think the reason they use plastic and wood for the enclosures is to minimize the heat signature.

Yes, a thermally insulating material will minimise the heating of the inside. The other problem with those pie tins is that the sides look pretty much vertical, what you want is a sloping edge so that there is some clearance between layers.

Just to keep you updated on my progress, in case you was wondering lol

I have bought:

1 x 1 meter x 6mm of threaded rod

I’m impressed…Maybe I should make one myself for my WS2310 Hygro etc…mmm…you’ve got me thinking…particularly as I saw the solar/fan unit in Maplins the other day… :roll: :roll: :wink: s’pose I’d better find the best source for the dishes…

Wilkinson’s (Wilkos) is the best source that i could find and i spent a whole night searching the net!!!

I have made 1 booboo so far, i forgot to drill the holes before i filled the lips #-o, so no i have made it a little
hard for myself, I will have to see what i can do after i have sanded it down :?

Don’t worry. The problem arises if they are too big. In that case all you have to do is cut a bit more each one.

Keep us updated. Good work by now.

Yeah, i spose the only way to find out is to set it up and see how it is :slight_smile:

I am sure there will be an update tomoz all being well 8)

Ok not so much an update but a pointer to anyone else wishing to give this a go…

When filling the lip, for gods sake use a flexible filler or use mastic, not silicon as this
will not bode well when painting…

The reason for me mentioning this is due to the fact its taken me 2 days to fill, sand
and paint. I used a standard filler and every time it dried and i sanded them they cracked
or came away from the outer rim, i have filled and sanded 3 times now, 3rd time i used
the flexible filler, this was also a pain as i had already filled with standard stuff, I should
have started all over again…

So, i have now managed to bodge job them and paint them, using 1 can of primer and 3
cans of white gloss, i had to fire the paint on thick and fruity to try to fill and cracks
that i could fill…actually it got to the stage where i kept saying to myself “that will do
there good enough
” and hoped that the paint will cover any discrepancies lol
boy was i wrong…

So to cap off, Make sure you use a decent flexible filler and get the sanding as smooth
as you can, will make for a nicer finish…I know i will have to do mine again in a years time lol :oops:

Hi peeps

After three days its finished (apart from the fan, will be added when it arrives)



I still think that when the fan arrives and i start to fit it, i may need to add another
saucer due to the height of my sensor, I also had to lay the sensor on its side due
to fitting issues but its in there with plenty of space around it. (WMR928NX sensor)

Also as the bottoms of my saucers are concaved and water would sit in there, i had
to find a quick way to fill it (i wanted to get it finished today) I used candle wax, I
heated it up in a tin on the gas hob, once melted to a consistency like water i just
poured it on the saucer bottom and let it cool, then finished off the paint that i had
left.

Ok granted it dont look the best but i thought that after 2 days of trying to fill the lips
i had best do something about the lid lol
As for the bracket its strong but thin, so the RS sways a little in a good wind, I may
stabilize it when i get round to actually sorting a more permanent spot for siting the
sensors.

An important note for anyone wishing to give this a go

Good preparation will improve the fitting of the parts and the end product.
I thought i did a good job on the preparation but when it came to painting i was so wrong.
Make sure you use a flexible filler, Sand (no less than 800 grit) all the saucers to a smooth
finish, I would highly recommend a flexi bond as the base coat, this helps the adhesion of
the primer (i forgot and when i caught 1 of the saucers it peeled a little)

I may even do it again next year and try to get it a little tidier next time lol

Thanks Breitling for idea and walk through that made it all possible :slight_smile:

Nice looking Bashy. Now time to check your temp data. Let us know.

Sorry for the late reply, i wanted to get an idea of what it was like…

Without the Fan (should be here Wednesday) it is reading about 3oc above
what it actually should be (this is only when the sun is out)…

I bought one of them garden thermometers, the one where it has a 2, a min and a max
with internal sliders (from wilkos). When the sun was gone yesterday evening i compared
readings and there was about 1oc on my OS, in other words the manual gauge
was reading 1oc below my unit. I dont know if this is out or my unit is out.

I have an ornament from Fuerteventura with a thermometer on it, i will take that out now
and see what they all say in an hour or so…

I will be back…

Hi,
Don’t think you can compare a thermometer from Wilkos with your OS one.
Have you thought about getting an additional OS thermometer sensor?
That’s probably the best way to test. :slight_smile:

Hi Clanger

I have 4 temp gauges out there at present, all in the shade away from any heat source.
I think the temp is pretty steady now, readings are:

Electrisave: 23.0oc Humidity 52%
OS internal: 21.7oc humidity 58%
Dolphin: 20.0.0oc
Wilkos: 19.0oc

Main sensor in the Radiation shield (without fan) no sun is 19.3oc humidity 58%

So the closest sensor is the Wilkos 1 lol

Ok, with no sun for the last hour or so, the OS is showing 18.7 and the Wilkos is showing 18.0
There at opposite sides of the garden, the wilkos is in total shade on the (brick) shed wall so
due to the wind dir at present its also pretty calm on the wilks as well

Hopefully i will get another sensor shortly so that i can do a more accurate comparison…

Ok, The fan came today, So its now fitted and working :slight_smile:

Please take a look at the image and let me know if you think thats enough of the
solar sensor covered please? You can see greater detail if you click the View
Original Size :slight_smile:



It looks like i might need to add some more wax to the top one as well, when it was
tightened up before it cracked the wax around the spacer and when i removed it to
fit the fan some of the wax came away :slight_smile:

I might just have a good look around for a new top saucer that is not concaved :slight_smile:
If anyone finds any, please let me know?

Why do you cover part of the cell? Let it work in its whole surface. What you have to seal is the junction between the black case and the clear cover (a bit silicone should be enough). Seal the back electrical terminals as well with grease, wax or silicone…

Hi, Someone said on here somewhere to cover part of the cells so that the fan is not getting too much power!

No, the fan is weak enough. If you cover part of the cell, the effect is the motor not always running. Measurement may vary a bit if the motor is or isn’t running. On a cloudy day you will have intermitent working periods, so intermitent changes in measurement. Keep the cell clear to let the motor run all day, from the first light to the dawn. Your data will be smoother.